Emerging designer Zane Li, based in New York, recently showcased his brand Lii's inaugural runway collection during New York Fashion Week. His creative journey began with a profound experience at Doug Wheeler's 'Day Night Day' exhibit, which inspired his innovative approach to fashion. Li's designs are characterized by their visually intriguing nature, featuring unconventional elements such as sideways blazers and jackets that double as skirts, transforming flat perceptions into dynamic expressions of movement and texture. This philosophy was vividly brought to life on the runway, where garments like layered cotton T-shirts and convertible skirts revealed their full transformative potential with each model's movement, demonstrating a sophisticated interplay of form and function.
Li, a recent graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, founded Lii just two years ago, initially exploring the interplay between formal and casual attire from his home in Chongqing, China. His early concepts focused on dramatic proportions and imaginative silhouettes, executed in a mix of technical and traditional fabrics. He aims to integrate casual comfort into eveningwear, creating pieces that appear formal but offer a relaxed wearing experience. The overwhelming positive reception for his work, culminating in a full-scale runway presentation, underscores his rapid ascent in the fashion world. Li emphasizes that building a brand involves harmonizing various elements beyond just clothing, including music, venue, hair, and makeup, to create a holistic and immersive aesthetic experience that transcends mere imagination and becomes tangible reality.
For his Spring 2026 collection, showcased in a striking whitewashed gallery with a blush pink floor in Tribeca, Li presented a palette of stark blacks and whites accented with vibrant primary colors. This color choice reflects his upbringing in a foggy, industrial city, where he often sought out unexpected flashes of color. At the core of his brand's philosophy is a nuanced understanding of 'sportswear,' a term he initially misunderstood as athleisure but later embraced as synonymous with ready-to-wear. Inspired by American designers like Calvin Klein and Helmut Lang from the nineties, and Miuccia Prada's integration of activewear into high fashion, Li combines athletic, formal, and casual elements to challenge modern fashion concepts. He also draws inspiration from historical greats like Madame Gr\u00e8s and Cristobal Balenciaga, reinterpreting their structural innovations through a contemporary lens, often incorporating technical fabrics from partnerships, such as with Nike, to push the boundaries of modern design.
Zane Li's journey exemplifies how artistic vision, combined with a deep understanding of fashion history and a willingness to challenge conventional definitions, can lead to groundbreaking innovation. His work with Lii not only redefines the boundaries of sportswear but also inspires a fresh perspective on how clothing can embody both artistic expression and practical wearability. By creating garments that are visually confounding yet deeply conceptual, Li encourages a more engaged and multi-dimensional appreciation of fashion, proving that true style emerges from thoughtful disruption and creative synthesis.