Stem's latest collection, aptly titled \"Over and Under and Over and Under,\" made a significant impression at Copenhagen Spring 2026 Fashion Week. This collection is a profound demonstration of founder Sarah Brunnhuber's mastery in textiles and her commitment to sustainable practices. Her unique approach, centered on a zero-waste production technique that involves weaving pattern pieces directly onto the loom, not only minimizes environmental impact but also defines the distinctive aesthetic of her designs. The presentation itself was an immersive experience, inviting guests into the creative process through willow weaving demonstrations, underscoring the deep connection between traditional craft and contemporary fashion.
The collection draws inspiration from basketry, translating its essence into wearable art. Each piece reflects a harmonious blend of artisanal techniques and modern design principles. The garments feature flowing silhouettes, intricate woven details, and intentionally frayed edges that add a textural richness. Brunnhuber's vision extends beyond mere aesthetics; she aims to educate consumers about the complexities of garment production, transforming the manufacturing narrative into a compelling story itself. Despite these profound underlying concepts, the designs remain remarkably approachable and suitable for everyday wear, effortlessly integrating into a stylish urban wardrobe.
The Art of Conscious Creation
Stem's recent collection, named \"Over and Under and Over and Under,\" captivated audiences at Copenhagen Spring 2026 Fashion Week with its innovative blend of textile artistry and commitment to sustainable fashion. The core narrative of this collection revolves around allowing form to emerge from technique, specifically through intricate weaving methods. Brunnhuber, a skilled weaver and textile designer, found inspiration in the humble basket, developing an industrialized technique to weave garment patterns directly onto the loom. This not only minimizes fabric waste but also ensures a cohesive and distinctive aesthetic across the entire collection. The designs subtly nod to the craft of basketry, manifesting in unique silhouettes and textural elements that highlight the brand's dedication to meticulous production processes.
At the heart of Stem's design philosophy is Sarah Brunnhuber's innovative zero-waste production method. This technique involves meticulously weaving individual pattern pieces directly on the loom, a process that significantly reduces fabric offcuts typically generated in traditional garment manufacturing. This approach is not merely a technical detail; it is a design signature that dictates the organic, often voluminous shapes of the garments, ensuring that each piece flows naturally from its woven origins. For instance, some items literally embody the basket concept through loose, woven fabric strips, while others offer a more abstract homage through their construction and drape. The intentional unraveling of threads to form subtle fringes on various pieces, from denim jackets to flowing dresses, further emphasizes the handmade, artisanal quality while cleverly managing fabric ends. This meticulous yet fluid creation process culminates in pieces that are both visually intriguing and deeply rooted in a conscious approach to fashion.
Wearable Innovation and Artistic Expression
The collection transcends mere visual appeal, embodying a profound mission to promote transparency and sustainability within the fashion industry. Brunnhuber aims to demystify the production process, transforming it into an integral part of the product's story. While deeply rooted in innovative manufacturing, the designs themselves are inherently wearable, crafted for comfort and versatility. They easily transition from runway to everyday life, reflecting a balance between avant-garde concepts and practical elegance. The pieces, styled with clogs for the presentation, exuded a laid-back sophistication that aligns perfectly with the contemporary street style of Copenhagen, proving that thoughtful design can also be effortlessly chic.
Brunnhuber's journey to establishing Stem in 2021, after honing her skills at Design Academy Eindhoven and interning with Henrik Vibskov, underscores her thoughtful and deliberate approach to fashion. Her previous collections consistently showcased a unified and fresh aesthetic, with the zero-waste weaving technique becoming a hallmark of the brand. This method is not just about environmental responsibility; it's also about creating a unique visual language for her garments. Beyond the technical innovations, Brunnhuber's core desire is to create pieces that are genuinely approachable and easy for individuals to wear. Her designs, while sophisticated and conceptually rich, maintain a down-to-earth quality. The silhouettes are often rounded and flowing, cinched at the waist with deliberate threads, and feature fabric that artfully cascades from collars and hips. This commitment to both high-concept craftsmanship and everyday wearability positions Stem as a leading voice in the evolution of sustainable and artistic fashion, offering clothes that are as meaningful as they are beautiful.