The Spring 2026 fashion season showcases a rich tapestry of cultural influences, as top designers looked beyond the runway to draw inspiration from a wide array of artistic expressions. This overview delves into the books, films, music, and art that ignited the creative sparks for these collections, offering a fascinating glimpse into the minds of fashion's most innovative figures. From cinematic masterpieces that explore societal dynamics to literary works that challenge conventions, and from vibrant art movements to captivating musical compositions, these cultural touchstones provided the foundational themes and aesthetic directions for the upcoming season's styles.
A notable source of cinematic influence for several designers was the 1968 film Teorema by Pier Paolo Pasolini. Both Rachel Scott of Proenza Schouler and Dario Vitale of Versace highlighted this classic as a significant favorite. Vitale articulated the film's profound impact, describing its narrative of a mysterious figure entering a seemingly perfect bourgeois family's life, leading not to destruction but rather a profound awakening among its members. This thematic depth and critique of societal norms resonated deeply, suggesting an undercurrent of transformative disruption in their designs for the season.
Henry Zankov, another prominent designer, revealed a broader spectrum of artistic influences that define the essence of his brand. His inspirations span across literature, cinema, and music, including the writings of Zadie Smith, Annie Ernaux, and Sophie Calle. Filmmaker Chantal Akerman's distinctive works also contributed to Zankov's creative vision, alongside the compelling music of PJ Harvey. This diverse blend of contemporary and classic artists underscores a multidisciplinary approach to fashion design, where narratives and artistic sensibilities from various forms converge to inform stylistic choices.
Filmmaker Robert Altman's 3 Women provided a unique muse for Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte, serving as a direct inspiration for their latest collection. This choice highlights how specific cinematic atmospheres and character studies can translate into tangible fashion aesthetics, influencing silhouettes, textures, and overall mood. Furthermore, Christopher John Rogers turned to the works of painter Morris Louis, whose distinctive use of color directly informed the vibrant palette of Rogers's Spring 2026 collection, demonstrating the powerful interplay between fine art and fashion.
Beyond visual arts, the performing arts also left their mark. Amy Smilovic's Tibi collection found its genesis in the “Geometric Ballet” created by artist Ursula Sax, a tribute to Oskar Schlemmer. The historical and artistic depth of these costumes offered a fertile ground for developing innovative and sculptural designs. Meanwhile, Duckie Brown's Steven Cox and Daniel Silver drew from a more recent television series, the 2016 PBS Masterpiece production The Durrells in Corfu. The series, particularly the bathrobes worn by a young Josh O’Connor, provided a whimsical and cozy inspiration for their menswear collection.
Musical selections played a pivotal role in setting the tone for several shows. Judy Nylon’s unique rendition of Elvis Presley’s “Jailhouse Rock” was a key track on Sarah Burton’s Givenchy soundtrack, adding a trippy and distinctive auditory element to the presentation. In a different vein, Gabriela Hearst embraced the esoteric, drawing inspiration from the Aleister Crowley Thoth tarot deck, famously painted by Lady Frieda Harris. Hearst integrated her interpretations of the deck's major arcana into her prints and jacquards, infusing her collection with symbolic depth and mystical allure.
The cultural journey extends to revisiting cinematic classics, with Louise Trotter reimagining Bottega Veneta’s iconic clutch, famously carried by Lauren Hutton in the 1980 film American Gigolo. Hutton herself graced the front row, bridging past and present. Anna Sui delved into literary history, inspired by D.H. Lawrence’s Lady Chatterley’s Lover and his self-imposed exile, finding resonance in the themes of alternative lifestyles and freedom from societal constraints. This literary exploration was further enriched by connections to historical figures like Millicent Rogers and the creative enclave at Mabel Dodge Luhan ranch. Additionally, the futuristic narrative of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea served as a core inspiration for Dynasty and Soull Ogun's collection for L’Enchanteur’s debut runway show.
Action-packed cinema influenced LaQuan Smith, who designed a collection featuring lace-up leather pants and wide crocodile belts with Lara Croft from Tomb Raider in mind. Tracy Reese, a Detroit native, consistently finds inspiration in the Detroit Institute of Arts, reflecting a deep connection to her hometown's cultural heritage. Christian Siriano’s entire Spring 2026 collection was a homage to the legendary Old Hollywood star Marlene Dietrich, celebrating her superb acting and distinctive glamorous fashions. Jonathan Simkhai found his muse in the Californian surf scene, channeling Venice Beach and the 2005 film Lords of Dogtown for his beach-inspired spring collection. Even though a surfing lesson might be out of reach, embodying seaside style certainly isn't. Di Petsa looked to Greek cinema and music, with the 1968 film Koritsia ston Ilio and Mimis Plessas and Lefteris Papadopoulos’s album O Dromos shaping her collection. Finally, Yaku Stapleton humorously revealed that his collections are inspired by the RPG games he plays, showcasing a modern and unconventional source of creativity. Alessandra Rich’s collection, on the other hand, found its muse in Cecil Beaton’s The Book of Beauty, featuring portraits of the Bright Young Things, or a more satirical perspective found in Evelyn Waugh’s Vile Bodies.
This season's collections are a testament to the profound influence that various forms of art, literature, and entertainment have on the world of fashion. Designers meticulously weave narratives, aesthetics, and emotional depth from these cultural elements into their garments, presenting not just clothing, but stories and experiences. From classic films that challenged norms to literature that explored freedom, and from vibrant art that inspired color palettes to music that set the mood, these diverse cultural inspirations highlight the endless possibilities for creative expression in fashion.