Simone Rocha's Spring 2026 menswear offering delves into an imaginative narrative, presenting a complete collection that stands as a charming counterpart to her previously shown womenswear. Drawing inspiration from a 'disgruntled debutante' theme, Rocha infuses her menswear with a unique blend of naivety and ironic elegance, alongside subtle nods to her Hong Kong roots. This season marks a significant expansion of her menswear vision, moving beyond initial limited showcases to a fully realized presentation.
Simone Rocha's Spring 2026 Menswear: A Fusion of Romance and Heritage
In a recent interview, renowned designer Simone Rocha elaborated on her comprehensive Spring 2026 menswear collection, stating that it serves as a 'beau' or male counterpart to her womenswear line, maintaining a similar spirit of naive charm and ironic sophistication. While a preview of ten menswear looks was integrated into last month's womenswear show, this new presentation unveils the full scope of her vision.
Key pieces in the collection include gabardine trench coats and shorter jackets, thoughtfully designed with a sashed detail intended for a young man to carry flowers to his date. Transparent jackets, adorned with delicate floral etchings, cleverly mimic the appearance of a humble bouquet. Rocha's playful exploration of teenage dance themes is evident in her reinterpretation of classic Irish and British school uniforms. Notable examples are the PE shorts and ruffle-fringed rugby shirts crafted from taffeta, some featuring pressed-flower decorations. Deconstructed tailoring and additional shorts made from coated cotton further showcase this youthful aesthetic.
A poplin shirt embellished with broderie anglaise frills, reminiscent of the pillowcase bags from her womenswear collection, highlights Rocha's intention for both gender categories to engage in a dialogue. The designer emphasized this interconnectedness, imagining a scene of a young couple sharing a moment at a bus stop, embodying a romantic, introspective sensibility. This 'Simone de Beauvoir-reading Simone Rocha fanboy' character, with a penchant for vintage cameras and allyship, embodies the collection's performative male identity.
Adding another dimension, Rocha incorporated elements inspired by her Hong Kong heritage. These designs translate into practical workwear pieces, including undyed and washed indigo denim, and chintzy pink silk-satin quilt, which, despite being less prominent in the show's lookbook, possess a strong appeal. Influenced by Hong Kong postal workers' attire, the strategic placement of pockets, patches, and rivets on belted, high-hemmed jackets offers a fresh take on conventional workwear. Even the jeans, featuring embellished carpenter's loops but lacking traditional brush pockets, offer a distinct, albeit ersatz, detail.
Having consistently presented menswear alongside her womenswear for several seasons, Simone Rocha is no longer an newcomer in this domain. Her dedicated menswear collections, initially seen in showrooms and as limited side-stories, are now poised for their own grand debut. The anticipation for her beautiful menswear to grace its inaugural runway prom is palpable.
Simone Rocha's Spring 2026 menswear collection offers a compelling vision that blurs traditional gender lines in fashion, celebrating a unique blend of youthful romance, refined elegance, and cultural heritage. The collection's thoughtful details and narrative-driven designs encourage a deeper appreciation for personal expression and interconnectedness in style. It prompts us to consider how fashion can tell stories and challenge conventions, inviting a fresh perspective on contemporary menswear.