A critical moment in the narrative of American-crafted selvedge denim is unfolding as a convoy of trucks embarks on a journey from Vidalia, Louisiana, to Trion, Georgia. These vehicles are transporting 45 Draper X3 shuttle looms and 45 Picanol President shuttle looms, pieces of machinery that carry not just historical weight but the very promise of the future for domestic denim production. This tale commenced in 2017 with the regrettable announcement of the legendary Cone Mills White Oak denim facility in Greensboro, North Carolina, closing its doors after 112 years of operation. White Oak's importance to the blue jeans industry, serving as a primary supplier for brands like Levi's for much of the 20th century, cannot be overstated. Its closure signified more than just the end of a business; it marked the cessation of an era for industrial-scale American-made selvedge denim, a fabric cherished for its inherent authenticity and the distinctive character it develops over time.
Roy Slaper, the visionary behind Roy Denim and a long-standing admirer of White Oak, reflects on this period as the conclusion of a significant chapter in American denim history, one that he believes will never be replicated. He emphasizes that the unique quality of White Oak's denim stemmed not solely from its storied premises or the generations of skilled artisans, but fundamentally from the looms themselves. The Draper X3, in particular, is lauded by Slaper as the quintessential loom, instrumental in crafting the fabric's inimitable texture and appearance. These machines, originating as far back as the 1940s, were notably narrower and operated at a slower pace compared to contemporary alternatives. Slaper vividly recalls how the ancient wooden floors of the White Oak plant would undulate with the rhythm of the looms, subtly introducing irregularities into the weave that imparted a unique charm, distinguishing it from mass-produced fabrics. His personal reserves of White Oak denim enabled him to continue producing his signature jeans until 2021, after which he believed his journey with this specific fabric had concluded.
The denim community did not remain in despair for long, as a potential revival emerged in 2018 with the establishment of Vidalia Mills. This ambitious startup acquired White Oak's invaluable shuttle looms, transporting them to its newly inaugurated facility in Vidalia, Louisiana. The company pledged to uphold White Oak's legacy and reignite large-scale denim manufacturing on American soil. However, despite its noble aspirations, Vidalia Mills ultimately failed to meet its lofty goals, collapsing under a substantial debt exceeding $30 million by late 2024. The fate of American selvedge once again became uncertain, fueling widespread speculation regarding who might step in to salvage this crucial industry.
Within industry circles, various theories circulated; some predicted a Japanese firm would acquire the looms, while others advocated for a consortium of American denim labels to intervene. Evan Morrison, a selvedge denim expert affiliated with the White Oak Legacy Foundation (W.O.L.F.), had a different vision. He identified Mount Vernon Mills, an esteemed 180-year-old textile manufacturer based in South Carolina, as the most promising custodian for the looms. Morrison openly expressed his hope in March, stating, \u201cWhat would really be great to see is if Mount Vernon Mills could acquire those shuttle looms, and we could help to keep them running.\u201d
Founded in 1845, Mount Vernon Mills stands as a rare beacon of American textile manufacturing that has not only withstood the profound pressures of globalization and private equity but has flourished. With a network of six textile production sites across the Southern United States and a workforce of 750 individuals, the company boasts an impressive output of over a million yards of fabric weekly. Furthermore, it holds the distinction of being the nation's foremost denim producer, supplying renowned brands such as Wrangler, Levi's, and Carhartt. Bill Rogers, the president of Mount Vernon Mills, candidly admitted to urging some associates to maintain discretion about their interest in the looms. He feared that public knowledge might attract international competitors, remarking, \u201cBecause somebody from Japan, or somebody like that, was going to swoop in and try to grab the looms. So I said, 'We\u2019re gonna have to lie low and let the legal process play out, but I think I can get them.'\u201d
Contrary to external expectations, the August auction of Vidalia's assets did not include the looms. It was subsequently revealed that the White Oak shuttle looms were not the property of Vidalia Mills but belonged to KaKa Cotton, a company based in New York City. Their destiny remained shrouded in mystery until Mount Vernon Mills recently announced an agreement with KaKa to relocate the looms to its principal plant in Trion. This move paves the way for establishing the first industrial-scale selvedge production line since the era of White Oak. Victor Lytvinenko, co-founder of Raleigh Denim, regards these looms as a \u201cnational treasure.\u201d He acknowledges Vidalia's attempt but asserts that Mount Vernon possesses the comprehensive capabilities to execute this endeavor correctly, positioning it as the sole American entity capable of such a feat.
Considering the turbulent past of these looms and the broader challenges confronting the American textile sector, one might question the economic viability of manufacturing denim on antique machinery in 2025. Nevertheless, Rogers remains optimistic, confident in his ability to succeed where others have faltered. He points to Mount Vernon's enduring 180-year legacy and stable denim business in other markets as evidence of its resilience, emphasizing that the company's fate does not solely depend on selvedge. To ensure the smooth operation of the machinery, Rogers' team has initiated an extensive search through old mills, factories, barns, and warehouses to acquire derelict machines and essential spare parts. He also plans to collaborate with historical preservation groups, including the Draper Museum in Lowell, Massachusetts, and the White Oak Legacy Foundation (W.O.L.F.), for training and specialized knowledge. If his plans materialize, a single-shift production line is anticipated to be operational by spring.
Lytvinenko eagerly awaits the reopening of the looms, having nearly depleted his personal supply of White Oak denim. While he is excited to transform the new Mount Vernon Mills-produced selvedge into jeans, he doesn't anticipate it will precisely replicate the distinctive appearance of the fabric woven at Cone White Oak. He notes that at Vidalia, the looms were situated on concrete floors, which prevented the unique vibrations that contributed to the original fabric's character, describing it as \u201ca really beautiful thing that can't be reproduced.\u201d This undertaking by Mount Vernon Mills signifies a profound effort to revitalize a cherished aspect of American craftsmanship, acknowledging both the challenges and the unique charm of traditional textile production methods.
The journey of these historic looms underscores a determined national effort to rejuvenate American-made selvedge denim. This endeavor not only seeks to preserve traditional craftsmanship but also to introduce a new chapter in the nation's rich textile heritage, promising a future for a beloved fabric that embodies both history and unique character.