Embrace the Edge: Where Refinement Meets Rebellion
The Evolution of Style: From Quiet Luxury to Audacious Expression
Over the past five years, fashion's pendulum swung from forward-looking innovation to a deep dive into nostalgia, influencing personal style profoundly. The early 2020s witnessed a vibrant revival of 'McBling' and 'Y2K' aesthetics, amplified by the explosion of TikTok, which catapulted fashion microtrends into digital hyperspeed. This rapid cycling of trends eventually led to a pervasive sense of fatigue, paving the way for the understated allure of 'quiet luxury.' Now, as the era of muted cashmere and flowing wide-leg trousers begins to fade, fashion is embarking on a new experimental journey. This involves a measured embrace of extravagance, seamlessly weaving the assertive power dressing of the late 20th century with the nonchalant grunge of the 2010s, giving rise to this exciting new hybrid: 'polished rock.'
Nostalgia's Grip: Resurrecting Iconic Runway Moments
The rise of 'polished rock' can be attributed to a dual convergence: an enduring nostalgia among both designers and consumers for iconic pieces from past collections, and a growing rejection of the quest for aesthetic flawlessness promoted by 'quiet luxury.' Fashion journalist Kristen Bateman notes that younger generations, heavily influenced by social media, are increasingly drawn to historical fashion content. This retro fascination is evident in recent collections, such as Chemena Kamali's modernized Paddington bag for Chloé's Fall 2025 line, and Saint Laurent's return to its decadent '80s archives, featuring luxurious lace and opulent gold accessories.
Defining 'Polished Rock': The Art of Intentional Contrast
For her Fall 2025 collection, Isabel Marant's artistic director, Kim Bekker, aimed for a fresh start, opting for a style that exuded effortless sensuality through a blend of disheveled charm and polished composure. Drawing inspiration from British rock bands like Siouxsie and the Banshees, as well as Marant herself, Bekker explored the dynamic tension between structured tailoring and an audacious 'IDGAF' attitude. This vision materialized in looks like a delicate lace blouse juxtaposed with an oversized masculine coat, embodying her ideal of "something very delicate and romantic, with something tough over it." Achieving this aesthetic hinges on a deliberate balance of refined elements and an undone quality. Envision a pristine white T-shirt paired with an intricately embellished designer leather jacket, or striking patterned tights complementing a perfectly styled blow-out.
Reimagining Power: The Return of Bold Silhouettes
The appropriation of traditionally masculine silhouettes in womenswear, while not new to the '80s corporate takeover narrative, feels revolutionary once more, according to Francesca Granata, associate professor of fashion studies at Parsons School of Design. Vaquera's Fall 2025 collection exemplifies this resurgence, mirroring the '80s ethos where bigger was unequivocally better. This included eccentric hats, enormous pearl accessories, pronounced shelf-like shoulders, voluminous gowns, and distressed suits. Granata observes, "This return to [a traditional idea] of womanhood, which we never thought we were going to see again in our lifetime, is being pushed on social media." Consequently, these strong, broad-shouldered silhouettes are now making a compelling statement against prevailing trends.
The Refined Rebellion: Beyond Indie Sleaze
Unlike its grungier predecessor, 'indie sleaze' of the late 2000s, this contemporary revival of edgy fashion is inherently more refined and less reliant on raw, DIY aesthetics, despite its rebellious undercurrents. While Mary-Kate Olsen's wine-stained Balenciaga Le City bag might inspire nostalgic fans to replicate the look (likely without the actual stain), fashion writer Kristen Bateman notes the current difficulty in sustaining truly raw, unpolished subcultures. "When I was younger, I idolized Audrey Kitching—her pink hair and messy eyeliner. But today, I feel like that can't exist, because everything is so curated for social media," Bateman explains. She adds, "I don't know that we would ever experience a real rock 'n' roll culture again, so I think that's why there's a fascination with it." If pioneering designers like Zandra Rhodes, who famously styled both rock stars and royalty, paved the way for the commercialization of counter-cultural aesthetics, the full realization of this fusion is now undeniably present.
Hedi Slimane's Enduring Influence: A Visionary's Legacy
If a single designer could encapsulate the essence of this new trend, it would undoubtedly be Hedi Slimane. In his influential tenures as creative director at Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, and Celine, Slimane played a pivotal role in pioneering the 'glamorous grunge' aesthetic. His designs have consistently captivated younger generations, inspiring a movement of so-called 'Hedi boys' who champion his distinctive androgynous rock-infused style. Despite his profound understanding of youth culture, Slimane's creations remain firmly rooted in the luxury realm, distinguished by their impeccable tailoring and sumptuous materials. For instance, his Spring 2021 Celine runway show, titled "The Dancing Kid," was inspired by TikTok Eboys, predating the industry's widespread adoption of the app. This exemplifies the measured maximalism that subtly re-emerged on the Fall 2025 runways. And the younger demographic is fully embracing it: London designer Aaron Esh humorously remarks, "I know people saving up to buy a $5,000 Celine jacket—they'll sleep in that jacket."
Authenticity and Longevity: Independent Designers Lead the Way
For independent designers like Aaron Esh, who have historically operated on the fringes of the trend cycle, the current post-TikTok fashion dialogue feels like a long-awaited alignment. After just three runway presentations, Esh has established a reputation as a master of grungy yet sophisticated clothing that fearlessly embraces contradictions. He might pair a distressed baseball cap with an exquisitely draped dress and sleek leather thong sandals. The secret to this effortless nonchalance lies in basing many of his designs on real individuals he knows personally, rather than being swayed by social media trends. "There's this subconscious, but also conscious, referencing of real people, which makes the fashion authentic," Esh explains. He adds, "The things that we do reference are completely un-rock 'n' roll," highlighting the timeless luxury found in the '50s designs of Cristóbal Balenciaga or Pierre Cardin's iconic cocoon coats. Ironically, both his detachment from fleeting trends and his reverence for traditional glamour perfectly align with the current counter-cultural sentiment. Compared to the dizzying personal style cycles of recent years, 'polished rock' exudes a sense of permanence. It selectively incorporates glamorous elements from diverse historical eras, empowering enthusiasts of various styles—be it bohemian, punk, or grunge—to forge their own unique interpretation. Bateman concludes, "Especially as we go into the fall, there are so many great staples. Skinny jeans, when worn correctly, can actually be really great."