Pieter Mulier has garnered significant acclaim for his transformative runway presentations at Alaïa, with notable pieces like the hooded stretch-knit tops from his Fall 2025 collection captivating audiences. While his runway spectacles are widely recognized, the brand is also experiencing remarkable success in the accessories market, particularly with its handbags and footwear. Mulier possesses a unique talent for identifying and elevating both the mundane and the extraordinary, which makes the absence of a pre-season lookbook until now somewhat surprising. This new unveiling marks a significant shift in his approach.
Mulier refers to these transitional season offerings, which he has consistently developed but never previously showcased to the public, as 'Archetypes.' True to their designation, these collections are rich with concepts that initially appeared on the runway but are reinterpreted here in more approachable forms. This philosophy is evident in designs such as a grey turtleneck dress, subtly flaring at the hips due to an integrated knit crinoline, which Mulier described as a 'contemporary rendition of the Guggenheim silhouette,' referencing the curvilinear forms he introduced in a New York museum exhibition two years prior. Similarly, a voluminous peacoat crafted from substantial English wool features a gracefully sweeping collar, offering a refined echo of the hooded veil design seen in a Fall '25 coat.
Expanding on the theme of everyday objects evolving into coveted items, this season debuts a softer iteration of the immensely popular Teckel bag, which has influenced fashion trends broadly, alongside a larger companion piece affectionately named the 'Bulldog.' The collection further includes a diverse array of denim creations, such as a sleeveless peplum top and a coordinating ensemble of full, flowing trousers. Mulier expressed his fondness for denim, attributing it to his extensive background in menswear and drawing a connection to Azzedine Alaïa's own appreciation for the fabric, recalling the iconic Perfecto coat with its distinctive large zipper, thus cementing denim's place within Alaïa's design lexicon. Mulier also infuses a sense of playfulness into his designs, as many of the featured looks are complemented by generous, transparent Swiss dot pants. He remarked on his affection for the concept of 'oversized stockings,' perceiving them as a contemporary silhouette to be worn beneath coats and dresses. His Spring '26 runway demonstrated considerable experimentation with legwear, where fringed stockings functioned as skirts beneath a series of opening tunics, achieving a genuinely innovative effect that is rare even at the pinnacle of fashion. These novel stocking-pants are sure to elicit admiring second glances.
The vibrant pink, long bias-cut dress crafted from double-satin is a testament to sophisticated simplicity. Mulier candidly admitted that while it appears effortless, its creation is exceedingly complex. He shared an amusing anecdote about its origin, revealing that he initially designed it for a close friend's wedding. The positive reception led to the creation of a limited collection, showcasing how personal inspirations can evolve into extraordinary pieces that not only catch the eye but command attention, stopping onlookers in their tracks.