Patricio Campillo, a Mexican designer, recently presented his third collection in New York, delivering a nuanced yet profound statement. Having previously garnered attention for a politically charged T-shirt, this season he shifted his focus to a more introspective exploration of his heritage. Campillo delved into the concept of repetition within Mexican culture, highlighting how the essence of Mexican artisanal value stems from processes inherently built on repetitive techniques. This inquiry naturally led to an examination of diverse materials and methods such as weaving, knitting, and knotting—crafts applied across various items from textiles to hammocks and baskets—demonstrating both consistent techniques and recurring motifs.
The collection profoundly emphasized the inherent worth of meticulous craftsmanship, evident in every piece. Campillo articulated his ambition to elevate the brand's sophistication, a goal unequivocally achieved through the remarkable construction displayed on the runway. Garments like shorts crafted from individually hemmed woven silk panels, bomber jackets, and shirts meticulously adorned with leather strips, along with smocking on tops and basket weaving details on trousers, showcased extraordinary detail. Each design, though distinct, maintained an intricate and captivating quality, reflecting Campillo's aim to recontextualize Mexican heritage through a contemporary lens.
Furthermore, this endeavor served as an educational journey for Campillo, fostering a deeper understanding of effective collaborations with Indigenous communities. He observed that more isolated communities often possess the most unique and distinctive processes and techniques, embodying a principle of self-referencing that continuously generates fresh interpretations of original forms. This insight is crucial for appreciating cultural evolution and preservation, and it underpins Campillo's strategy for building a brand from its foundational elements. The true significance of this collection lies in its ability to prompt the audience to rethink their perceptions of runway-worthy fashion. Campillo aimed for his work to provoke contemplation on the definition of a luxury item, asserting that it extends beyond European ateliers to encompass the rich contributions of Mexican artisans and their communities. This vision was seamlessly brought to life through the integration of both worlds, notably with feather pieces crafted in Paris by a renowned atelier.
Despite the evident labor and materials involved, the collection exuded an effortless romance and lightness. Campillo's judicious application of diverse fabrications to his signature menswear silhouettes—including shirts, trousers, blouses, and jackets—was instrumental to the collection's success. His designs were as precisely crafted as they were inherently simple and wearable, underscoring the feasibility of his ambitious vision for the label. This collection not only celebrates the beauty of Mexican craftsmanship but also challenges preconceived notions of luxury, advocating for a broader, more inclusive appreciation of artisanal skill and cultural heritage.