Oscar-winning costume designer Colleen Atwood recently shared insights into her meticulous craft for Paul Thomas Anderson's film, 'One Battle After Another.' Unlike her previous fantastical projects, this movie anchored her in reality, demanding authentic attire for a varied cast, from hidden revolutionaries to affluent white supremacists and everyday individuals. Atwood expressed immense pride in this particular work, highlighting her commitment to a nuanced and understated approach to costume design that subtly enhances the film's narrative rather than dominating it.
The Intricate Process Behind the Costumes of 'One Battle After Another'
Colleen Atwood's journey into the world of 'One Battle After Another' began serendipitously during a chance encounter with director Paul Thomas Anderson. This led her to undertake the challenging task of costuming a diverse ensemble, including clandestine rebels, privileged supremacists, ordinary high school students, and a freedom-fighting Sensei. Atwood's design philosophy for the film was rooted in what she termed 'unconscious-conscious dressing,' focusing on the subtle realism that defined each character's look. For instance, the attire of revolutionaries living off the grid was intentionally inconspicuous, designed not to draw attention, reflecting their need for secrecy. A notable example is Regina Hall's character, Deandra, whose simple, uniform-like clothing conveyed a sense of purity and practicality, mirroring her genuine nature rather than a calculated fashion choice.
The collaborative spirit of the production was evident in the early costume fittings held at Anderson's Los Angeles residence. Actors such as Leonardo DiCaprio and Chase Infiniti participated, with Anderson capturing these sessions on 35mm film, allowing for real-time adjustments and refinements. DiCaprio's character, Bob, acquired his distinctive 'stoner dad' ensemble, featuring a custom-made checkered bathrobe inspired by a vintage rental, a design Atwood envisioned becoming a popular Halloween costume. Similarly, Chase Infiniti's character, Willa Ferguson, donned a blue skirt crafted from airy silk gazar, designed to be dynamic and action-ready while maintaining a delicate, almost transparent quality. This was paired with a rugged, 'Grease'-esque leather jacket, symbolizing Willa's resilience and her cherished possessions.
Atwood's attention to detail extended to the film's antagonists, the Christmas Adventurers Club, a secret society of upper-class WASPs. Their diverse attire—from golf apparel to pajamas for a clandestine meeting—was directly inspired by real-life observations, ensuring an authentic portrayal of their eccentricities. Sean Penn's character, Colonel Steve Lockjaw, a striving member, was deliberately dressed in ill-fitting, pristine formalwear, which Atwood described as something his mother would choose for Easter Sunday church. This sartorial awkwardness subtly underscored his struggle for acceptance within the group and complemented Penn's poignant performance.
Benicio del Toro's portrayal of Sensei Sergio St. Carlos, a community leader and martial arts instructor, offered another fascinating costume evolution. Initially, Atwood considered keeping Sensei Sergio in his gi, but del Toro's practical input led to a more dynamic look: gi pants paired with a sleek Puma track jacket. Further inspiration for Sensei Sergio's aesthetic came from Atwood's scouting trip to El Paso, where she observed unique cowboy boots, which were then integrated into his costume alongside an indigo denim jacket custom-made by Jimmy McBride. This fluid, reality-driven design process, resulting in a piecemeal yet cohesive look, epitomized Atwood's approach to bringing the characters of 'One Battle After Another' to life through their clothing.
This film's costume design offers a profound lesson in the power of subtlety. Atwood's meticulous attention to detail, drawing from real-life observations and fostering collaborative relationships with the director and actors, demonstrates how clothing can transcend mere aesthetics to become an integral part of character development and storytelling. It reminds us that sometimes, the most impactful statements are made not through extravagance, but through authenticity and a deep understanding of human nature and circumstance. Atwood's work highlights the profound connection between costume and narrative, proving that even the most understated elements can leave a lasting impression on an audience, enhancing their immersion in the story and their connection to its characters.