Mains: Echoes of London's Nightlife & Youth Culture
The Club's Entrance: A Theatrical Opening to the Collection
The presentation commenced with a vivid depiction of a club entrance, setting a raw, urban tone. A stern doorman, positioned at the end of a runway strewn with typical London street debris such as scattered leaves, overflowing bins, and promotional flyers, surveyed the arriving guests. His station beneath a sign reading 'Club Deja Vu' underscored the theme of exclusive access, where fashion itself served as the entry pass.
\"Eurotrash\" and the Music-Fashion Nexus
Skepta, the creative force behind Mains, elaborated on the collection's genesis, emphasizing the inseparable link between clothing and music. He revealed that his early club experiences were shaped by the desire to wear specific outfits to enjoy particular musical genres. The collection, dubbed \"Eurotrash,\" pays homage to a British late-night television program from the 1990s, renowned for its irreverent mix of fashion, current events, and explicit content, which profoundly influenced Skepta's teenage club outings.
Reimagined Formal Wear: A Nod to UK Garage Aesthetics
The initial segment of the collection featured a reinterpretation of classic formal attire, echoing the refined dress codes prevalent during the early UK Garage movement. This included cropped pinstriped shirts adorned with integrated triple-banded satin cummerbunds, a distinctive waistcoat that doubled as a bulletproof vest, and trousers crafted from brushed suiting wool with five pockets. Playful references to rave bootleg culture were evident in leather jackets inspired by popular snacks and a sheer top, while the sneakers subtly honored the iconic Prada America's Cup design, a highly coveted item of that era.
Patterned Denim and Bespoke Details
The collection further unveiled denim ensembles featuring a striking piebald python motif, unexpectedly derived from a real snake's skin, subtly overlaid with smiley faces. Other pieces, such as jackets with scarlet and black stripes and contrasting pockets, showcased intricate strapped detailing, drawing inspiration from the distinct 'clique suits' Skepta once favored. Despite a claret and blue beanie's association with football team colors—traditionally a strict no-go in certain venues—its pairing with a cropped white short-sleeved shirt and straight-leg brushed jeans perfectly aligned with the collection's aesthetic. A tailored black jacket prominently displayed a cut-out smiley symbol on its back.
The Evolution of Mains: Monograms, Mohawks, and London's Rich Heritage
Skepta proudly noted the two-year journey to perfect the Mains monogram, which graced denim outfits and accessories in this collection. A particularly inventive item was a cropped parka/bomber jacket, whose faux fur hood lining was reconfigured to resemble a mohawk when worn. This, along with a mod-inspired suit presented early in the show and the Jamie Read-influenced Mains print on jersey fabrics, collectively expanded the narrative to encompass London's broader history of youth cultures shaped by music and fashion, showcasing the brand's profound connection to its roots.
A Powerful Statement: Mains' Enduring Vision
Now in its third iteration of this renewed phase, Mains, under Skepta's direction and with the skillful collaboration of lead designer Mikey Pearce, firmly establishes itself as far more than a fleeting celebrity fashion venture. The collection's extensive references, clever design, and dramatic presentation culminated in a truly impactful Mains event, affirming its significant presence within the London fashion landscape.