London Fashion Week, following its New York counterpart, commenced with a vibrant display of creativity and innovation. The event, which kicked off with H&M's fashion presentation and Harris Reed's imaginative bird-themed creations, quickly established itself as a platform for both established and burgeoning talents. The initial days of the week were packed with notable shows, including Chopova Lowena's distinctive fusion of American football culture and traditional folk elements, and Fashion East's compelling showcase of new designers. A significant highlight was Roksanda Ilinčić's celebration of her two-decade milestone, presenting her iconic feminine designs. The runway also saw a spectacular opening by Richard Quinn, featuring an appearance by an internationally renowned supermodel. This comprehensive overview captures the essence of the early days of London's premier fashion event.
British designer Harris Reed, known for his dramatic flair, presented his tenth collection, aptly titled \u201cThe Aviary.\u201d This season, Reed explored themes of constraint and liberation through his designs, which featured cage-like structures overlaid with expansive fabric wings and delicate feathers. He masterfully reinterpreted classic forms, incorporating padded corseted hips and elongated necklines to create visually striking and unconventional silhouettes. The models, adorned with feathers, moved gracefully down the runway, embodying the ethereal quality of the collection.
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena, the creative duo behind Chopova Lowena, drew unexpected inspiration for their Spring 2026 collection. They ingeniously blended their signature punk-infused British style with nostalgic American high school football aesthetics, particularly focusing on cheerleading culture. Adding another layer of cultural depth, they incorporated elements from the traditional folk costumes of the Karakachani people of southern Bulgaria and Greece. The resulting collection featured distinctive linebacker shoulder pads, ornate trimmings, and, of course, pleated skirts, paying homage to a quirky and unique sensibility.
Fashion East, established in 2000 by Lulu Kennedy in collaboration with the British Fashion Council, has a rich history of nurturing prominent British design talents, including Maximilian Davis, Simone Rocha, and Jonathan Anderson. This season's showcase introduced a new wave of promising designers. Louis Mayhew presented a fresh, subversive take on traditional workwear, while Cameron Williams' brand, Nuba, offered metropolitan designs deeply influenced by the designer's immigrant background. Jack Gleba captivated audiences with his movement-inspired drapery, demonstrating a diverse range of artistic visions.
Roksanda Ilinčić marked a significant milestone, celebrating two decades since the launch of her brand. Her latest collection remained true to her core design philosophy: contemporary interpretations of feminine silhouettes that resonate with modern women. She intricately wove in elements of her Serbian heritage, infusing them with the artistic spirit of British sculptor Dame Barbara Hepworth. Against a backdrop of Serbian acapella music, the collection featured oversized tailoring, voluminous eveningwear, and decorative raffia embellishments, creating a harmonious blend of influences.
Richard Quinn's presentation of luxurious eveningwear commenced with a show-stopping appearance by the iconic supermodel Naomi Campbell. She exuded elegance in a black velvet column gown, exquisitely detailed with a crisp white satin collar and a blossoming camellia. Following Campbell's grand entrance, models paraded Quinn's eccentric yet opulent corsetry and grand ball skirts. These elaborate pieces were meticulously crafted from sumptuous satins, rich tulles, and decadent silks, showcasing the designer's flair for dramatic and lavish fashion.
In stark contrast to the extravagant and exaggerated forms presented by designers like Richard Quinn and Harris Reed, Aaron Esh's Spring 2026 collection offered a more grounded and practical perspective. The London-based designer reinterpreted casual wardrobe essentials, such as bomber jackets and baseball caps, integrating them into both menswear and womenswear with a touch of refined formality. This collection demonstrated a compelling blend of everyday wearability and sophisticated design, appealing to those who appreciate a more understated yet stylish approach to fashion.