Li-Ning's Milan Fashion Week Debut: A Strategic Play for Global Presence

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Li-Ning, a prominent Chinese sportswear company, is making a strategic move onto the international stage with an immersive Winter Olympics-themed presentation at Milan Fashion Week Men's. This bold initiative underscores the brand's commitment to enhancing its global recognition and strengthening its market position amidst fierce competition from both domestic and international sportswear giants. The brand's deep-rooted connection to the Olympic Games and its heritage as the official outfitter for Team China will be central to this fashion event, aiming to showcase its unique blend of athletic spirit, cultural narrative, and modern design. This high-profile appearance is part of Li-Ning's broader strategy to navigate a dynamic market landscape, characterized by shifts in consumer behavior and intensified competition.

Li-Ning's Ambitious Milan Showcase: Blending Olympic Legacy with High Fashion

As the Winter Olympics in Cortina D'Ampezzo draw near, Chinese sportswear powerhouse Li-Ning is seizing a pivotal moment to host an immersive experience and runway show during Milan Fashion Week Men's. This event, scheduled for Friday evening, is a strategic maneuver by the brand, which ranks as China's second-largest sportswear entity by revenue, to elevate its global standing and intensify its rivalry with market leaders such as Anta, Adidas, and Nike.

For Li-Ning, the connection to the Olympics is deeply personal and foundational. The brand was established in 1990 by legendary gymnast and three-time Olympic gold medalist, Li Ning. His vision was to create a domestic label that would proudly attire Chinese athletes at the Olympic Games, a role previously filled by Western brands like Nike and Adidas. Since the Barcelona Olympics in 1992, Li-Ning has consistently served as the official outfitter for Team China, from the opening to the closing ceremonies, and holds the distinction of being the official apparel partner of the Chinese Olympic Committee.

Colin Li, Executive Director of Li-Ning and nephew of the founder, articulated the brand's strategic rationale for choosing Milan at this particular juncture: "Presenting in Milan now is a deliberate decision. We view runway shows not merely as seasonal marketing efforts but as opportunities to commemorate significant milestones for the brand." He further explained, "Our Fall/Winter 2026 collection aligns perfectly with several converging forces for Li-Ning: our rich legacy in winter sports, our official partnership with the Chinese Olympic Committee, and our unique capability to merge performance wear with high fashion and culture."

Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, Li Ning successfully cultivated the largest domestic sportswear brand in China, fueled by a potent combination of national pride and athletic achievements. However, since the 2010s, the market has seen the rise of more affordable Chinese labels like Anta, which has since surpassed Li-Ning to become the largest domestic player by revenue, and Xtep. Concurrently, international powerhouses such as Nike, Adidas, Lululemon, and more recently, Alo, have significantly penetrated the Chinese market through substantial investments in local design and targeted regional marketing initiatives.

Addressing the current market challenges, Colin Li acknowledged, "Like many in our industry, we have been impacted by macroeconomic pressures and heightened competition." This comes amidst a observed softening in Chinese consumer spending since 2024. Li-Ning's financial performance for the first half of fiscal year 2025 reflected these pressures, with net profit declining 11% year-on-year to RMB 1.74 billion ($241.9 million), despite a 3% increase in sales to RMB 14.82 billion ($2.1 billion). This figure, however, represents an improvement over the first half of fiscal 2024, which saw a sharper 13.6% drop in net profit. In contrast, Anta reported robust revenue of RMB 38.54 billion ($5.3 billion) in H1 2025, marking a 14.3% year-on-year growth.

Following the release of these earnings, founder and co-CEO Li Ning issued a statement, highlighting Olympic-related marketing as a crucial strategy to navigate economic headwinds and bolster the brand's competitive edge in China. Colin Li added, "We've also proactively refined our product architecture, fortified core categories, improved inventory management, and made more deliberate investments in brand development and innovation." The Milan show's front row will feature a mix of Chinese and European Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs), a deliberate move to amplify Li-Ning's presence across major global social media platforms, including Instagram and Xiaohongshu (Red).

The overarching goal for Li-Ning is to reaffirm the strength of Chinese sport and design, particularly within the burgeoning "guochao," or "China chic," movement, which celebrates Chinese heritage and encourages local consumers to embrace domestic brands. "While international expansion remains a long-term aspiration, our immediate focus is on enhancing brand relevance and perception, rather than prioritizing short-term sales volume," Colin Li emphasized. "We aim to demonstrate how a Chinese brand can utilize a modern, style-driven design language to convey the essence of Chinese athletic spirit and sporting glory on a global platform."

Li-Ning currently generates nearly 70% of its revenue from offline sales within Mainland China, with two-thirds of its total revenue originating from wholesale channels. The brand is strategically re-evaluating its monobrand retail footprint in response to market dynamics, having closed 232 self-operated stores over the past year while simultaneously opening 145 new ones.

When questioned about potential expansion into Western markets following the Milan debut, Li offered a measured response: "We adopt a selective and disciplined approach to physical retail. Any future store openings or upgrades will be strategic, experience-driven, and aligned with our long-term brand positioning, rather than pursuing rapid expansion."

The Milan show will unveil 60 distinct looks across two collections from the brand's FW26 offering: Li-Ning Glory, its utilitarian everyday line, and Li-Ning China (LNCN), its premium line. The latter draws inspiration from winter sports and incorporates elements from archival Olympic podium suits, honoring the brand's rich heritage. These collections will be available through select flagship stores, premium wholesale partners, and various digital channels in China. Colin Li clarified, "The runway serves as a narrative amplifier for our existing collection, rather than a standalone commercial capsule. There will be a seamless connection between what is presented on the runway and what is accessible to consumers."

Li-Ning's runway journey began at New York Fashion Week for FW18, as part of e-commerce giant Tmall’s China Day, a collaboration with the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). The brand subsequently transitioned to Paris, showcasing its off-schedule collections during PFW Men’s for SS20 and FW23. "Those shows laid a clear groundwork, demonstrating Li-Ning's credible presence at the nexus of sport and fashion," Li remarked. "New York introduced the brand to a global fashion audience through a powerful cultural entry point, while Paris reinforced that legitimacy on a more established fashion stage." He concluded that this foundational work makes Milan not merely a one-off event, but a significant next chapter in the brand's ongoing narrative.

This strategic foray into Milan Fashion Week is more than just a fashion show; it's a statement of intent. Li-Ning's proactive approach to global visibility, coupled with its focus on heritage, innovation, and strategic market positioning, offers valuable lessons for brands navigating competitive landscapes. It highlights the importance of leveraging cultural narratives and historical ties to create a compelling brand identity, while simultaneously adapting to evolving consumer trends and economic pressures. For aspiring brands, Li-Ning's journey underscores that long-term success is built not just on products, but on a carefully crafted narrative that resonates with audiences both locally and internationally.

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