Embracing the Past, Designing for the Future
A Journey Through Time: Venice and Jeanne Lanvin's Legacy
Lanvin holds the unique position of being the oldest continuous French haute couture house, possessing an archive rich not only in designs but also in captivating stories. Peter Copping, in his tenure as creative director, initially focused on reinterpreting the brand's iconic silhouettes. Now, he delves deeper into its narrative, particularly drawing inspiration from Jeanne Lanvin's enchanting travels to Venice with her niece, Marianne. The mood board, adorned with black and white photographs of their Venetian sojourn—capturing moments in front of the Bridge of Sighs and along the canals—served as a poignant bridge between eras, reflecting a century of sartorial evolution.
Inspiration from the Archives: Simplicity and Craftsmanship
The historical photographs offered more than just sentimental value; they revealed the elegant simplicity of what Jeanne Lanvin and her niece wore. Copping found particular resonance in Mme Lanvin's crisp white jacket and black skirt, which fell gracefully just below the knee. This classic aesthetic provided a foundation, while the artistic potential inherent in Fortuny pleats and the intricate beauty of Murano glass beads opened avenues for creative exploration.
Eveningwear Reinvented: Contemporary Embellishments
The collection's eveningwear showcases a modern approach to adornment. Traditional heavy embroidery is replaced with heat-set stones, offering a lighter yet equally dazzling sparkle. Similarly, black velvet ribbons elegantly supplant classic corsetry, providing structure with a softer touch. These refined choices are poised to make several pieces strong contenders for red carpet appearances, blending timeless glamour with current design sensibilities.
The Evolution of Daywear: A Complete Wardrobe Vision
A central tenet of Copping's vision for this collection was the expansion of daywear. Recognizing that previous collections leaned towards more formal attire, he aimed to establish a comprehensive wardrobe for the modern woman. His goal was to ground the collection in versatile pieces that transition seamlessly from day to night, reinforcing Lanvin's identity as a purveyor of full, sophisticated ensembles.
Refined Silhouettes and Parisian Influences
The collection features alluring expressions of Lanvin's "chic ultime," characterized by elements such as double-flared silhouettes, intricately ornamented capelets, and tweed ensembles fastened with brooches. Copping's keen observational skills, honed by watching Parisian women's street style, influenced several key looks. He sought to imbue the collection with a sense of realism, highlighting pieces like black knit leggings paired with a vibrant red textured coat, reminiscent of John Singer Sargent's iconic portrait of Dr. Pozzi.
Artistic Touches: Murano Glass and Fortuny Tones
Murano glass emerged as a striking graphic motif, beautifully integrated into silk dresses. These garments featured a delicate interplay of fine pleating and effortless draping, executed with a light and airy feel. Fortuny jewel tones enriched the collection's palette, adding depth and luxury without appearing ostentatious. The jewelry, humorously described by Copping as "Murano by way of Brittany," underscored the brand's collaboration with a designated artisan of France, emphasizing exquisite craftsmanship and unique design.
Statement Pieces and Everyday Essentials: Balancing Desire with Wearability
Photographed in the picturesque Parc Monceau, home to Lanvin's grand showroom, the collection presents a balance of bold statement pieces and highly wearable essentials. Outstanding outerwear, including high funnel-neck jackets and sophisticated shawl-collar coats, alongside sculptural heels dubbed the "Midnight Step," command attention. Simultaneously, the collection offers colorful sweaters with grosgrain ties and newly re-edited Lanvin ballerina flats, catering to a broader commercial appeal. Copping stresses the importance of covering all bases while maintaining believability, ensuring that pieces like the fitted knit jackets and asymmetrical dresses are not only fashionable but also practical for various occasions, even a spontaneous trip to Venice in 2026.