Stephanie Suberville's latest spring collection for Heirlome showcases a distinctly more whimsical and innovative spirit, as articulated by the designer herself. This fresh perspective is beautifully exemplified by a unique seasonal print, a collaboration with Mexican artists Bernardina Rivera Baltazar and Roselia Felipe Rivera. The print, characterized by its confident and radiant linear patterns, draws inspiration from Purépecha pottery, traditionally used for water vessels. This artistic heritage was skillfully reinterpreted into delicate, three-dimensional knits of cashmere and silk by Madres y Artesanas Tex in Bolivia, underscoring a commitment to artisanal craftsmanship.
Suberville's vision transcends mere aesthetics, aiming to establish heritage as a new form of heirloom. By supporting Latin American artisans and their profound knowledge, she simultaneously crafts garments in New York that are destined to become future heirlooms. This interwoven philosophy is strikingly visible in the collection's charming, fluffy tassels, composed of diverse threads, which ingeniously abstract floral concepts and infuse the designs with dynamic movement and tactile richness. A classic black coat, for instance, is elevated from a mere wardrobe essential to a statement piece through the incorporation of these playful embellishments. Suberville's design ethos balances a clean aesthetic with dramatic volume and silhouette. For the spring lineup, structured hips were achieved with airy horsehair support, while trousers adopted a more relaxed, lower-waisted cut. Suberville also experimented with contrasting materials, utilizing raw silk for a barn coat with utilitarian pockets, introducing a robust element that found its way into eveningwear. Surface intrigue was further explored with densely layered or petaled fabrics, creating topiary-like textures on ruffs and tops, and a 'popcorn' dress featuring gradually enlarging 'kernels' towards the hem, resulting in a unique textural ombré effect. Draping, a signature of Suberville's, was presented in both classic, Grecian-inspired forms and abstract, organic shapes achieved through innovative flat geometric cutting.
As a finalist for the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund, Suberville reflected on the holistic evolution of her brand. This introspective process led her to revisit past designs, reissuing pieces like the slip dress with lace inserts, and re-engaging with former suppliers. The collection's nostalgic and romantic undertones are deeply influenced by Natalia LaFourcade's rendition of the Mexican folk song 'Cucurrucucú Paloma,' with lyrics from this and other Mexican classics subtly embroidered on T-shirts. The Spanish word 'Paloma' signifies pigeon or dove, symbolizing Suberville's readiness to explore new horizons and achieve greater heights in her creative journey.
This collection not only highlights artistic innovation but also celebrates the rich cultural tapestry that inspires it, encouraging appreciation for diverse traditions and the ongoing evolution of creativity. It reminds us that embracing our roots while looking forward can lead to extraordinary and meaningful creations, fostering a sense of continuity and progress.