Unveiling the Legacy: Barneys New York Through the Eyes of a Visionary
A Deep-Seated Connection to Apparel and Heritage
At 74, Gene Pressman's passion for attire remains as vivid as ever. He proudly displays a classic leather belt from Barneys' in-house collection, a testament to enduring quality and design. His affection extends to vintage Bass Weejuns loafers and Brooks Brothers T-shirts, items he's cherished since his youth, embodying a timeless sense of style.
The Evolution of an Icon: From Discount to Distinction
Gene's grandfather, Barney Pressman, established the original Barneys in 1923. Gene, alongside his father Fred, orchestrated a remarkable metamorphosis, elevating Barneys from a budget suit retailer to a beacon of high fashion. They introduced American consumers to influential designers such as Armani, Comme des Garçons, and Dries Van Noten, shaping the fashion landscape of New York City and beyond.
\"They All Came to Barneys\": A Glimpse into a Golden Era
Pressman's memoir offers an exhilarating journey through a period of opulent retail and a vibrant, albeit vanished, New York City. Far from a conventional business narrative, the book interweaves tales of Studio 54's wild nights, Versace's daring designs, and encounters with New York luminaries like Anna Wintour and Andy Warhol. It's a personal account of a life lived stylishly and a heartfelt homage to a beloved New York institution.
The Enduring Appeal of Fred Pressman's Style
Ralph Lauren once lauded Fred Pressman's impeccable personal taste. Gene reminisces about his father's unique approach to dressing: a blend of effortless sophistication and subtle rebellion. Despite being colorblind, Fred possessed an extraordinary eye for quality, often combining suit jackets with casual trousers or wearing a fedora with a worn brim, embodying a cool, unconventional elegance.
The Genesis of a Fashion Collaboration: Armani and Barneys
Fred Pressman's collaboration with Giorgio Armani was pivotal in introducing European high fashion to the American market. Recognizing the conservative nature of American menswear, they meticulously designed a line that balanced avant-garde aesthetics with practicality. This innovative collection captivated creative professionals and remains a benchmark for timeless style, with Gene himself still wearing his father's pieces decades later.
Cultivating Personal Style: A Philosophy of Authenticity
Gene Pressman has always favored a classic, understated wardrobe: slim-fit jeans, a T-shirt or button-down, a blazer, and penny loafers. He believes clothes should complement, not define, the wearer, eschewing transient trends for enduring wearability. His philosophy diverged from the prevailing notion of dictating customer desires, emphasizing individual expression over fleeting fads.
Unforgettable Encounters with Fashion's Maestros
Pressman shares captivating anecdotes about legendary designers, revealing their personalities beyond their public personas. He recounts a trip to Tokyo in 1979 where he first encountered Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. Despite an initial misstep in passing on Yohji's men's collection due to its perceived similarity to Brooks Brothers, Barneys eventually secured the designer's line, underscoring Pressman's keen eye for emerging talent.
The Art of Advertising: Collaborating with Glenn O'Brien
Barneys was renowned for its inventive advertising campaigns, a legacy shaped significantly by Pressman's collaboration with writer Glenn O'Brien. O'Brien, known for his concise and witty style, crafted advertisements that were both cryptic and humorous, perfectly complementing Barneys' visually striking imagery. Their partnership created a distinct brand identity that resonated deeply with the public.
A Look Back: Defining Decades of Men's Fashion
Reflecting on men's style through the decades, Pressman points to the 1960s as a transformative period. London emerged as a cultural hub, influencing fashion, music, and social trends. He also recalls the vibrant club scene of the 1970s, particularly Studio 54, which significantly impacted Barneys' business as customers sought out daring styles like leather pants.
The Enduring Appeal of Leather Pants and Club Culture
The trend of men wearing leather pants, popularized by rock icons like Jim Morrison, became a staple of 1970s club fashion. Italian designers like Versace and Armani created supple leather garments that were both stylish and provocative. Despite the discomfort, the allure of leather pants at venues like Studio 54 was undeniable, contributing to a bold and uninhibited fashion era.
Crafting an Icon: The Black Barneys Shopping Bag
Pressman recounts the creation of the iconic black Barneys New York shopping bag. Driven by a preference for simplicity and clean aesthetics, the Pressman family designed the bag for their own satisfaction, unaware it would become a symbol of luxury and sophistication. Its widespread presence in other upscale stores affirmed its status as a cultural touchstone, a testament to their belief in timeless design.