London Fashion Week once again demonstrated its vital role in fostering nascent talent, highlighted by the Fashion East Spring/Summer 2026 presentation. This year's event not only marked a quarter-century of the non-profit's dedication to supporting groundbreaking designers but also introduced a fresh wave of innovation to the industry.
Fashion East's Milestone Celebration and Visionary Showcase at London Fashion Week SS26
On a memorable Friday evening, London's prestigious Institute of Contemporary Arts (ICA) played host to the Fashion East Spring/Summer 2026 runway show. This significant occasion celebrated 25 years since Lulu Kennedy established the non-profit organization, which has been pivotal in launching the careers of globally recognized designers such as Kim Jones, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, and JW Anderson. To further honor this rich history, an accompanying exhibition, titled "Us Lot: 25 Years of Fashion East, powered by Nike," captivated visitors in the ICA's lower gallery from September 20–21, providing a comprehensive look at the organization's enduring impact on fashion.
The runway show itself was a testament to Fashion East's forward-looking approach, featuring a dynamic lineup of three designers. Among them, Jacek Gleba, a Barcelona-born graduate of Central Saint Martins' MA program, made his eagerly anticipated debut, injecting his unique creative energy into the London scene. He was joined by Louis Mayhew, the UK designer behind the eponymous label Mayhew, also presenting his inaugural collection under the Fashion East umbrella. Completing the trio was Nuba, the label helmed by another Central Saint Martins alumnus, Cameron Williams, marking his third season with the incubator and continuing to push boundaries with his distinctive aesthetic.
Mayhew commenced the showcase with a collection characterized by its intricate deconstruction. His designs layered various textures, creating a sculptural effect that mimicked collaged elements on the body. The thoughtful selection of fabrics added profound depth, while subtle paint accents and striking accessories, including extended beaded necklaces and tactile handbags, enhanced the collection's overall allure.
Nuba followed with a presentation that exuded both precision and effortless style. The use of a minimalist monochrome palette offered a sophisticated backdrop for each garment, which masterfully blended African and London influences. The collection's construction techniques were particularly noteworthy, elevating each piece with a sense of refined artistry. The highlight of Nuba's show was a spectacular finale ensemble: an enormous, feather-like jacket paired with ethereal cream-colored sheer trousers and meticulously crafted woven footwear.
The evening concluded with Jacek Gleba's collection, a vibrant tribute to dance. His Spring/Summer 2026 offerings featured fluid, soft materials designed to facilitate movement and expression. The color scheme, though subtle, left a powerful impression, and strategically placed cutouts introduced elements of both fluidity and contemporary design. The practicality of ballet flats and flip-flops anchored the looks in an everyday, street-style sensibility, rendering the collection both innovative and eminently wearable.
This Fashion East event not only underscored London's consistent ability to champion new fashion voices but also reaffirmed its position as a global epicentre for avant-garde design. The diverse and compelling presentations from Jacek Gleba, Mayhew, and Nuba signal an exciting future for contemporary fashion, continuing the influential legacy established by Lulu Kennedy and her pioneering organization. The incubator's commitment to innovation and artistic freedom remains a cornerstone of the industry, inspiring both designers and audiences alike.