The worlds of professional tennis and high fashion have become increasingly intertwined, creating a dynamic landscape where athletic performance meets sartorial expression. This fusion is not a recent phenomenon but rather the culmination of a long and fascinating evolution in tennis attire, transitioning from restrictive formalwear to modern, performance-driven designs that frequently feature designer collaborations. Today, the courts are a runway, with top athletes serving as influential ambassadors for leading luxury brands, pushing the boundaries of sports aesthetics and cultural impact.
Historically, when tennis was primarily known as lawn tennis and played on grass courts, the sport held a distinct social dimension. It was an occasion for individuals to connect and socialize, leading to an emphasis on refined personal presentation over athletic practicality. Men's attire typically consisted of sophisticated blazers and trousers, while women often wore corseted gowns with sweeping skirts. The prevalent "all-white" dress code, initially adopted to mask sweat, inadvertently restricted participation to the upper echelons of society. This sartorial formality gradually gave way to more functional designs through the pioneering efforts of tennis legends. A pivotal shift occurred in 1887 when Charlotte 'Lottie' Dod won Wimbledon in a more liberating midi-length dress, discarding the traditional corset. Suzanne Lenglen further challenged conventions at Wimbledon in 1919 by displaying bare arms and wearing a less restrictive hat. On the men's side, René Lacoste, who would later establish his iconic brand in 1933, introduced the revolutionary short-sleeved polo shirt, featuring an unstarched collar, prioritizing comfort and freedom of movement. These innovations marked the genesis of modern sportswear, paving the way for the vibrant and diverse tennis fashion seen today.
As the 20th century progressed, tennis fashion continued its transformative journey. Skirt lengths became shorter, and athletes embraced a wider spectrum of colors, signaling a departure from the strict all-white tradition, with Wimbledon remaining a notable exception. This era ushered in a playful approach to on-court style, exemplified by figures like Anne White, who, in 1985 at Wimbledon, famously donned a catsuit—a look that predated and arguably influenced Serena Williams's much-discussed catsuit at the 2018 French Open. The early 2000s witnessed a surge in brand endorsements, as major sports apparel companies like Nike, Adidas, and Puma intensified their involvement in tennis. Serena Williams's long-standing association with Nike, for example, followed her initial endorsement deal with Puma in 1998. Similarly, Roger Federer secured lucrative endorsements from luxury giants such as Rolex and Mercedes-Benz, further solidifying the sport's appeal to high-end markets. This period also saw a rise in designer collaborations, with fashion luminaries like Virgil Abloh creating bespoke outfits for Serena Williams and Riccardo Tisci designing a crystal-embellished dress for Maria Sharapova, showcasing the burgeoning synergy between the two industries.
Today, the relationship between tennis and fashion is more profound than ever. Esteemed luxury brands, many of which previously had no connection to the sport, are actively engaging with tennis and its athletes. Gucci has appointed Wimbledon champion Jannik Sinner as a global brand ambassador, while Louis Vuitton has welcomed Carlos Alcaraz as a House Ambassador. British talent Jack Draper has become the global face of Burberry, and Bottega Veneta recently announced Italian tennis player Lorenzo Musetti as its newest celebrity representative. Although there is still room for further development in women's tennis endorsements, significant partnerships exist, such as Miu Miu and New Balance's collaboration with Coco Gauff, and Tag Heuer's endorsement of Naomi Osaka. The heightened cultural visibility of tennis, coupled with shifting demographics, has made it an attractive platform for high fashion. The 2024 film 'Challengers,' starring Zendaya, Josh O’Connor, and Mike Faist, notably amplified this cultural relevance, with Zendaya's tennis-inspired press tour attire and JW Anderson's costume design further cementing fashion's integral role within the sport. Beyond professional play, the "tenniscore" aesthetic has permeated mainstream fashion, influencing consumer choices with popular items like white shirtdresses, V-neck polos, and pleated miniskirts. Furthermore, the growing influence of tennis WAGs (wives and girlfriends), such as Morgan Riddle and Paige Lorenze, who frequently showcase tennis-themed ensembles and secure brand deals with luxury labels like Burberry and Thom Browne, underscores the sport's widespread impact on contemporary style. The evolution of tennis fashion reflects a broader cultural trend where sportswear transcends its functional origins to become a powerful statement of style and luxury, engaging a global audience in unprecedented ways.