Dentalium: Echoes of Ancestry in Modern Adornment
The Elusive Quest for Precious Tusks: Why Dentalium Shells Outshine Diamonds
In a pursuit for crafting new artistic pieces, Gwich'in jewelry designer Tania Larsson once scoured for dentalium shells—elongated, tubular casings from marine mollusks. Despite their increasing scarcity, Larsson eventually located a seller with a substantial collection and eagerly acquired the entire lot, underscoring their exceptional value. In Indigenous fashion circles, these tusk-like, milky-white shells are considered far more precious than diamonds, a sentiment driven by their dwindling availability. Larsson notes, "My most prized shells are antique North American ones; they are thick and lengthy, truly one-in-a-million." Beyond their rarity, dentalium shells continue to be sought after for their rich historical narratives and symbolic resonance.
Unveiling the Enduring Legacy: The Historical and Cultural Significance of Dentalium Shells
For centuries, Indigenous peoples across North America have held dentalium shells in high esteem. The practice of incorporating these shells into Indigenous clothing and jewelry predates European colonization, with widespread adoption among Pacific Northwest tribes like the Kwakwaka'wakw and Nuu-chah-nulth, who had easy access to the sea for harvesting. Over time, extensive Indigenous trade networks facilitated the movement of these shells thousands of miles inland, reaching tribes such as the Lakota and Ojibwe in the Great Plains, where they functioned as both decorative elements and a form of currency.
Beyond Material Worth: Dentalium Shells as Symbols of Selflessness and Community Pride
Primarily, these shells were revered for their inherent beauty. Dentaliums have historically graced (and continue to adorn) capes, dresses, headdresses, and various forms of jewelry, particularly on ceremonial regalia worn at traditional powwows. The display of dentaliums also signified affluence; an abundance of shells indicated respect and noble standing within the community. As Larsson explains, "This demonstration of wealth wasn't about greed or power, but a testament to selflessness. Good deeds for the community were often rewarded with rare items like dentaliums."
Preserving Heritage Through Craft: Contemporary Indigenous Artists and the Dentalium Tradition
This deep reverence for dentalium shells, imbued with cultural pride, persists today. They remain integral to powwow regalia, with artists like Russell McCloud renowned for his traditional breastplates, and are increasingly featured in avant-garde runway designs and exquisite jewelry. Artisans such as Larsson, Jamie Okuma, and Keri Ataumbi are creating stunning contemporary dentalium jewelry, while deeply respecting their traditional value. Okuma, whose signature tiered dentalium earrings have been worn by stars like Lily Gladstone, observes, "Even with today's acquisition methods, they are still a very rare material. You don't just find them washed up on shores." The scarcity is further exacerbated by climate change, which has caused dentalium populations to gradually shift towards the Arabian Sea.
The Art of Scarcity: Valuing Dentalium Shells in the Modern Market
Today, the value of dentalium shells is meticulously assessed based on characteristics such as age, patina, length, thickness, and smoothness. Ataumbi notes, "Each one is unique—some are prized for their size, others for their luster." Certain shells can even exhibit a greenish hue. Bags of dentaliums command significant prices, ranging from hundreds of dollars per pound to over fifty dollars for a single shell.
A Legacy Honored: The Intentional Craftsmanship of Dentalium Artistry
Given the immense challenge of sourcing ideal dentalium shells, many artists protect their procurement methods with discretion, utilizing their precious acquisitions sparingly and with profound intent. Okuma explains, "It's a very finite material. The dentalium earrings I'm currently crafting come from someone's collection from two decades ago, which I purchased ten years past." Ataumbi also reserves her dentaliums for special creations. "I still possess shells my mother kept among her sewing supplies, which I only use for family pieces," Ataumbi shares. "They are distinct from modern shells, boasting a beautiful patina, luster, and substantial thickness."
Innovation Rooted in Tradition: Blending Ancient Materials with Modern Aesthetics
The scarcity of these shells has spurred innovative artistic approaches. When artists incorporate them into a piece, they ensure its worth, resulting in breathtaking creations. Ataumbi masterfully blends dentaliums with luxurious jewelry elements like diamonds and high-carat gold. She states, "In my Native artist's mind, all three materials hold equal value. By uniting the shells with high-carat gold and diamonds, these pieces illuminate our diverse value systems and forge connections." Larsson has crafted dentalium harnesses adorned with bison horn, while Indigenous labels such as House of Sutai and Copper Canoe Woman are developing captivating body chains and headpieces. Recently, Okuma unveiled an entire dentalium dress at the 2025 Santa Fe Indian Market, a vision she had contemplated for years. "Shells are inherently sculptural, perfectly suited for a dress," Okuma reflects. "It felt both profoundly Native and refreshingly modern, embodying our present existence."
Cultural Threads: Weaving Identity and Heritage Through Dentalium Fashion
Okuma's narrative-rich use of shells exemplifies a broader movement in Native fashion, where artists leverage their craft to express a symbiotic connection with natural materials and the environment. Ataumbi asserts, "Our bond with materials is tangible, and for some, it's a deep ancestral and environmental link." Larsson echoes this sentiment, adding that for many involved with dentalium creations—both makers and wearers—these shells represent a continuation of tradition and a powerful form of cultural preservation. "These materials carry history and memories," Larsson explains. "By wearing them, we impart the significance of value and what true wealth means in our traditional context." Beyond their profound meaning, their inherent beauty is undeniable. "They are conversation-starters," Larsson concludes. "Wearing them prompts engagement from strangers, unlike a diamond ring."