Barneys: A Legacy Beyond Retail, Where Style and Culture Converged
From Humble Beginnings to Fashion Royalty: The Genesis of an Icon
Initially launched in 1923 by Barney Pressman, the establishment, then known as Barney's, began its journey as a menswear discount outlet with a straightforward approach: 'No Bunk, No Junk, No Imitations.' Over time, it shed the apostrophe and appended 'New York,' evolving into a beacon of metropolitan sophistication. Barneys distinguished itself from typical department stores by crafting an elevated shopping experience. Its interiors, designed by Peter Marino, exuded modern elegance, and its curated selection of international designers, alongside vibrant events, gave it the ambiance of a high-profile social hub rather than a mere retail space.
Pioneering Vision: Expanding the Horizons of Fashion
Gene Pressman, the founder's grandson, who later served as co-CEO and creative director, meticulously documented the store's evolution in his recent publication, 'They All Came To Barneys.' He recounts how Barneys became an intrinsic part of the 20th-century fashion narrative. Under his father, Fred's guidance, the store introduced groundbreaking designers like Giorgio Armani to the American market. Gene further broadened the store's offerings, bringing in influential French designers such as Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Claude Montana, as well as avant-garde Japanese labels like Yohji Yamamoto. This forward-thinking approach, however, still valued traditional elements, exemplified by the popular hat department, whose removal, according to Pressman, adversely affected sales by diminishing the store's unique charm and old-world appeal.
A Cultural Nexus: Engaging with Society and Art
For several decades, Barneys' flagship store in Chelsea stood as a dynamic reflection of New York's ever-changing social landscape. It demonstrated its commitment to societal issues by addressing the AIDS crisis, which had a significant impact on the fashion community. Simon Doonan, then a window dresser, proposed a benefit for St. Vincent’s Hospital, an idea that Gene Pressman enthusiastically supported. This 1986 charitable fashion show notably featured supermodels Madonna and Iman, attracting esteemed guests like Andy Warhol and John Galliano, thus intertwining fashion with philanthropy.
Star-Studded Events and Iconic Collaborations
The store was a magnet for celebrities and high-profile events. In 1995, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell graced a celebration for downtown fashion luminary Stephen Sprouse. In the same year, Barneys' Los Angeles location hosted the post-premiere gathering for Isaac Mizrahi’s documentary 'Unzipped,' an event so popular it reportedly attracted the Beverly Hills fire department due to excessive indoor smoking, underscoring its lively and sometimes unconventional atmosphere.
Global Reach and Cultural Impact: Barneys as a New York Symbol
Following a collaboration with the Japanese department store Isetan, Barneys expanded its footprint, establishing itself in upscale malls across the 1990s. Despite this growth, Manhattan remained its spiritual heart, evident in its impactful advertising campaigns featuring New York icons such as Spike Lee, Harvey Keitel, and Sandra Bernhard. Barneys pioneered taxi-top advertising among luxury retailers and became a fixture in popular culture, appearing in shows like 'Seinfeld' and 'Sex and the City.' Its influence was such that an executive on a business trip to Japan observed a woman proudly carrying a laminated Barneys shopping bag as a fashion accessory, illustrating the brand's global appeal and symbolic status.
Artistic Expression Through Retail: The Legendary Window Displays
Simon Doonan's captivating and often surreal window displays were a major draw, enticing passersby into the store. A notable 1988 display depicted Nancy Reagan departing the White House with airline tickets, while a 1993 installation humorously blended elements of 'Edward Scissorhands' with the Lorena Bobbitt scandal. In 1994, artist Tom Sachs's Nativity-themed display, which provocatively replaced traditional figures with Hello Kitty and Bart Simpson, sparked controversy among conservative groups, highlighting Barneys' willingness to push artistic and cultural boundaries.
The Enduring Legacy: A Store That Lives On in Memory and Media
Although Gene Pressman departed before the turn of the millennium, Barneys continued to thrive under new ownership, persistently championing emerging and avant-garde designers. Its closure in 2019 was felt as a significant loss for New York City's fashion landscape, yet the affection for Barneys remains strong. Recently, Hourglass Cosmetics orchestrated a temporary 'revival' pop-up, showcasing designers like Presley Oldham and Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen. Furthermore, Pressman's book is slated for a television adaptation by Beth Schacter and Joe Wright, and 'Gossip Girl' creators Josh Schwartz and Stephanie Savage are developing their own Barneys-inspired project with Amazon MGM, ensuring that the story of this iconic establishment will continue to unfold on screen.