Arriving in Wengen, a picturesque Swiss hamlet carved into a rocky perch approximately 1,200 meters above sea level in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, is an intentional journey, demanding a certain dedication to reach. My summer excursion from Zurich Airport involved three distinct train rides before even reaching Lauterbrunnen village, where a distinctive yellow-and-green cogwheel train then ascended the mountainside. The Swiss rail network, predictably, operated with remarkable efficiency, transforming a multi-leg trip into a seamless experience. Upon disembarking, the reward was immediate: crisp, clean mountain air and an unparalleled panorama of the Alps, where dramatic cliff faces frame a vast chasm, with verdant fields blanketing the peaks and wisps of clouds gracefully weaving through them—a quintessential, idyllic Alpine scene that surpasses even the most vivid imagination.
Just a short, electric-taxi ride from the car-free village, the Grand Hotel Belvedere stands as Beaumier's newest acquisition and its first Swiss venture, following the success of revered properties like Les Roches Rouges on the French Riviera and Le Fitz Roy in Val Thorens. This debut, however, transcends a mere grand opening; it embodies a thoughtful rejuvenation of a cherished landmark. Erected in 1912, the chalet-style hotel flourished during Wengen's Belle \u00c9poque era, hosting luminaries such as J.R.R. Tolkien, whose epic valley views reputedly inspired the majestic mountain passes of Middle Earth. Despite its enduring presence through decades, the property eventually succumbed to a quiet dormancy, awaiting rediscovery. Following its acquisition in 2024, Beaumier collaborated with Geneva-based architecture firm Clavien & Associ\u00e9s and interior designers Complete Works to meticulously awaken the hotel. Upon entering through the Art Nouveau archway, the lobby immediately evokes a Wes Anderson aesthetic, with a crackling fireplace illuminating the ornate pine paneling and a rediscovered fresco of Adam and Eve above the hearth. Further exploration reveals a spacious corridor lined with windows, offering panoramic views, where contemporary armchairs invite guests to relax with tea. The complex spans two buildings, connected by landscaped gardens, fostering a gentle, continuous flow of activity. My stay in the main building featured a third-floor room with a quaint wooden balcony overlooking a larch grove. The guest rooms and suites champion local materials and craftsmanship, reinterpreting traditional Alpine d\u00e9cor with a sleek, modern touch. Walls adorned with natural lime and pale timber complement custom-made, minimalist furniture crafted from local spruce and pine. Thoughtfully curated artworks, including pieces by Manon Daviet featuring felted wool motifs of local flora, infuse a contemporary flair into traditional Swiss folklore. The in-room amenities are equally refined, with minibars stocked with local chocolates, beverages, and pre-mixed cocktails concocted by the hotel\u2019s mixologist from the Waldrand lobby bar.
While the main hotel structures celebrate its rich heritage, the strikingly modern spa presents a glimpse into the future. Housed in a distinct pavilion, its brutalist design by French architectural firm Saint Lazare harmonizes with the surrounding forest, drawing inspiration from Japanese onsen to create a space of serene, meditative beauty. An afternoon spent alternating between the sauna, ice bath, and concrete-lined outdoor pool promises profound relaxation. Enhancing this experience are Susanne Kaufmann treatments, offering barrier-building ectoin facials, scrubs, and massages, reflecting the grand dame of Alpine wellness's renowned expertise. Beyond the hotel's luxurious confines, Wengen offers a wealth of activities. Winter sports enthusiasts can indulge in skiing, snowboarding, glacier climbing, sledding, and even trail running in the snow. Summer visitors can choose from adrenaline-pumping options like paragliding and via ferrata, or more tranquil pursuits such as mushroom foraging and jet boating on the lake. The culinary offerings at Grand Hotel Belvedere are equally impressive, with two restaurants providing distinct dining experiences. Brasserie Belvedere, located in the original hotel's grand dining room, features soaring arches framing natural light and intricate Art Nouveau floral motifs, providing an elegant backdrop for local charcuterie, cheese platters, and elevated Alpine dishes by Chef Will Gordon, including his renowned Alpine macaroni and homemade schnitzel. For a more relaxed atmosphere, Sonnenbad restaurant, accessible via an outdoor pathway, serves raclette, perfectly grilled bratwurst with tangy sauerkraut, and lighter options like spinach salad with local berries or wagyu bresaola with mushroom tapenade. The Bergwald Bar, with its theatrically rounded white bartop and stunning views, offers innovative mocktails and cocktails infused with local herbs and spirits. Strolling through Wengen's main street on my final morning, surrounded by hikers enjoying coffee outside charming Swiss chalet-style shops and with the magnificent peaks visible in every direction, evoked a sense of timelessness, enhanced by the absence of cars. This unique tranquility inspired a profound feeling, much like the fertile ground J.R.R. Tolkien found in the region for his imagination. As London's creative community begins to gravitate towards this hotel, it is clear that many more artistic endeavors will undoubtedly be sparked by these unparalleled views. Embarking on my return journey by cogwheel train, a pleasant, dreamlike sensation lingered, making it hard to believe that I had been silently wandering forest paths just hours earlier. While Wengen may not be a destination one stumbles upon accidentally, a new wave of discerning travelers is poised to discover that the journey to this extraordinary place is undeniably worthwhil