Cartier's legendary Panthère motif, a design enduring for over a century, has developed into its own distinct lineage, inspiring an array of timepieces, exquisite jewelry, and luxurious leather articles, all drawing from the essence of the original lithe feline. At Art Basel this week, the distinguished house presents "Into the Wild," an immersive exhibition that offers guests an intimate exploration of the Panthère's core identity.
This unique experience provides an unparalleled opportunity to witness the Panthère's transformation into one of the brand's most recognizable emblems within its creative universe. From striking gold timepieces that gracefully encircle the wrist, mimicking a panther's form from paw to tail, to intricate pavé diamond hoop earrings adorned with distinctive black specks, this feline-inspired collection is designed to capture attention rather than blend in. Beyond its stunning aesthetics, the exhibition offers a fresh perspective on the collection's historical significance and enduring traditions. The journey begins with the original rendition of the clandestine jungle cat, first subtly hinted at around 1914 in a watch embellished with pavé diamonds and black onyx spots, a powerful combination conceived by the maison's visionary former creative director, Jeanne Toussaint, affectionately known as "La Panthère" for her keen instincts and design mastery. Guests can reserve a viewing slot online to delve into how Toussaint solidified the Panthère's iconic status during her nearly five-decade tenure as haute jewelry creative director. The exhibition, divided into five distinct rooms, illuminates the Panthère's legacy through archival displays, behind-the-scenes glimpses of its creation, and a bespoke installation by artist Clare Celeste.
Entering the exhibition, visitors are greeted by a captivating central display: a white gold Panthère brooch, resplendent with diamonds, onyx spots, and piercing emerald eyes, set against a sweeping cinematic panorama of panthers. This sets the stage for a guided exploration through each significant phase of the Panthère's history and intricate artistry. The second chamber illuminates the pivotal role of Toussaint, the original "Panthère," showcasing notable pieces such as a Cartier Collection Bird Clip brooch and a Tiger bracelet, which exemplify her expansive interpretation of animal motifs. Her dedication to precise wildlife representation was so profound that she encouraged designers to sketch at the zoo. Her influence sets the narrative for the third room, which unravels the feline's evolution through various art and cultural movements. A standout piece in this section is a 1997 "Egypte Collection" bracelet, featuring yellow gold panthers gracefully adorning a white gold cuff, illustrating the undercurrent of Egyptian influences that spurred a wave of ancient revival jewelry throughout the 20th century, ignited by the discovery of King Tut's tomb in the 1920s. Conversely, a diamond and onyx cuff bracelet, showcasing two Panthère figures, encapsulates the audacious glamour of the 1980s. Following this genealogical tour, the fourth room offers an exclusive look into the bespoke methods employed by Cartier artisans to bring each creation to life. The meticulously hand-sculpted Panthère wax models alone attest to the extraordinary skill required to transform a mere sketch into a tangible masterpiece. Part of the Panthère's allure lies in the inherent sense of motion imbued in each sculpture, as if every muscle fiber of the creature is thoughtfully considered before being rendered in solid gold and precious gemstones, a process initiated by exceptional artisans who shape each form. Consider, for instance, a Panthère de Cartier ring, seemingly frozen mid-pounce on its prey. Other sections in this room unveil the craftsmanship behind various specialized techniques, from the distinctive diamond, onyx, and sapphire "fur setting" to the technical intricacies of mechanical arts, such as fine watchmaking. As noted by Bazaar's Senior Fashion and Accessories editor, Jaclyn Alexandra Cohen, who experienced the exhibition firsthand, the "savoir faire" room, particularly the fascinating glyptic expressions of the panther incorporating unexpected materials like petrified wood and stones with natural imperfections, was a highlight, revealing the immense detail poured into each Panthère piece. After immersing themselves in the maison's heritage and bespoke traditions, guests proceed to the final room, which features an installation conceived by Clare Celeste. The artist has transformed the Design District into a lush forest with colossal hand-cut images of exotic flowers, trees, and leaves. This custom-designed wonderland houses displays of Cartier's exquisite fine and high jewelry creations, ranging from Panthère pieces to crocodiles, giraffes, zebras, birds, and tigers. Cohen remarked that the exhibition was not merely visually captivating but an all-encompassing journey that quite literally peeled back the layers of history and craft techniques that render each piece so unique and personal.
The enduring presence of the Panthère ensures its continued legacy, and this three-day exhibition offers the public a novel way to engage with the impact of such an iconic creation. For those attending Art Basel this weekend, a journey into Cartier’s wild side is easily accessible, promising an unforgettable exploration of artistry and heritage.