Redefining Value: Avavav's Independent Path
The Strategic Evolution of Avavav's Brand Presentation
Emerging fashion labels frequently grapple with the decision of whether to host elaborate shows, balancing visibility against financial considerations. Since 2022, Avavav's creative director, Beate Skonare Karlsson, has leveraged her digital expertise to craft runway events that critique both the fashion world and contemporary online culture. Her past presentations have featured models dramatically stumbling and garments disintegrating, and she has also delved into themes of temporal progression and societal pressures.
From Viral Spectacles to Poignant Critiques
The widespread appeal of Avavav's previous showcases has significantly boosted the brand's profile, leading to collaborations such as the Adidas partnership for Spring 2025. However, for the current fall collection, Karlsson deliberately moved away from this established format. Instead, she produced a video and lookbook within what she described as a 'disturbing retail environment,' where models were styled to resemble mannequins adorned with price tags. Karlsson articulated in her collection notes that by unveiling new designs in a space that inherently suggests disposability, she aimed to highlight the precarious nature of value in the fashion landscape, observing that 'the entire industry operates on a cycle of discounting and sales.'
A Distinct Aesthetic: Streetwear Meets Vintage Allure
This Swedish designer maintains no illusions of opulence. Her creations resonate with her peers through the language of streetwear and imaginative accessories, exemplified by past designs like the Moonrubber boots and high-heeled luge shoes. The core of Avavav's design philosophy is rooted in Karlsson's personal style, which gravitates towards a blend of tomboyish elements, urban fashion, and subtle vintage accents. She emphasized her focus on 'silhouette-driven design and concept-driven presentation.' The collection prominently features signature skeleton motifs and updated shirts with integrated ties. Echoing the emotional undertones of the preceding fall season, the line includes short skirts and underskirts. Tailored jackets feature deliberately mismatched fastenings, while long shorts surprise with unexpected lace trimmings. What appears to be denim is, in fact, crushed velvet. Mirroring Norma Kamali's revival of her iconic 1980 sweats collection in the same season, some of Avavav's most compelling ensembles are crafted from grey marl terrycloth. Structured elements introduce a dramatic flair to a sharp-shouldered T-shirt and a hooded dress with a perpetually elegant circular skirt, eliminating the need for dramatic urban backdrops.
Embracing Creative Autonomy and a New Direction
Karlsson reflected on her past tendency to conform to the fashion industry's established structures, where brands often rush to produce goods that quickly end up on sale, blurring the lines between commercial imperatives and creative expression. She felt that she had participated 'a little too literally in the seasonal merry-go-round' for what Avavav truly represents. As a result, the designer has not only adopted a different presentation format but also chosen a new venue: moving forward, Avavav will showcase its collections in Paris during the men's fashion season, signaling a bold step towards greater creative autonomy.