Experience the Fusion of Artistry and Precision: The New Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked.
A Legacy Reimagined: The Enduring Allure of Perpetual Calendars in Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Lineage
Perpetual calendars have long been a cornerstone of Audemars Piguet's illustrious history, with the Royal Oak series proudly carrying this intricate complication since 1984. The latest iteration, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked, heralds a significant evolution, powered by the innovative Calibre 7139. While a parallel Code 11.59 model offers its own distinct charm, the Royal Oak variant unequivocally captures the essence of AP's design philosophy, making it the preferred choice for many enthusiasts seeking that signature blend of tradition and modernity.
Crafting Elegance and Durability: The Pioneering Case and Bracelet Design of the Royal Oak Timepiece
Measuring a perfectly balanced 41mm in diameter with a slender 9.5mm thickness, this watch boasts a case that feels remarkably refined and comfortable on the wrist, surpassing the wearability of previous openworked Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models. Its innovative construction features a harmonious blend of lightweight titanium and Audemars Piguet's proprietary Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). The BMG, previously seen in the 150th Anniversary QP ref. 26585XT, is meticulously applied to the bezel, caseback frame, and bracelet studs, offering a captivating interplay of satin-brushed titanium and mirror-polished BMG that exudes both luxury and advanced engineering.
The Art of Lightness and Resilience: Unveiling the Bracelet's Exceptional Comfort and Engineering
On the wrist, the timepiece offers an unexpectedly low-profile and secure fit, a testament to its integrated bracelet and optimized thickness. The titanium bracelet, adorned with BMG studs, is not only exceptionally light and fluid but also showcases impeccable finishing, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces that seamlessly extend from the case. This design ensures a substantial yet never cumbersome feel, positioning it as a technical marvel rather than a delicate showpiece. Furthermore, its enhanced 50-meter water resistance underscores its practicality, signifying a perpetual calendar engineered for daily wear rather than just ceremonial occasions.
The Transparent Narrative: Decoding the Intricate Beauty of the Openworked Dial
Designing an openworked or skeletonized perpetual calendar is akin to a theatrical performance, where the line between breathtaking spectacle and bewildering complexity is razor-thin. Audemars Piguet strikes this balance with remarkable precision. The sapphire dial masterfully reveals the inner workings of Calibre 7139 while maintaining impressive legibility. A captivating visual depth is achieved as the smoked, transparent subdials for the calendar indications appear to float above the movement, yet remain distinctly separate, offering a clear and uncluttered view.
Navigating Time's Intricacies: A Closer Look at the Dial's Intuitive Layout and Features
The dial's layout adheres to a logical European arrangement: the day at 9 o'clock, featuring an integrated 24-hour indicator; the date at 12; the month and leap year at 3; and the moon phase gracefully positioned at 6. Week numbers are cleverly printed on the inclined inner flange, maximizing space and utility. While the pink gold Royal Oak hands, filled with luminous material, provide clear hour and minute readings, the current week number is particularly easy to discern due to its white print against a black flange, guided by the centrally mounted hand. Although other perpetual calendar indications might initially appear subtly integrated, a slight wrist movement allows light to catch their surfaces, making them perfectly readable at a glance. Overall, the dial achieves a serene yet sophisticated aesthetic, complex but never overwhelming.
The Heartbeat of Innovation: A Detailed Exploration of the Calibre 7139 Movement
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked is animated by the Calibre 7139, an openworked evolution of the previous year's Calibre 7138. This movement builds upon the ultra-thin automatic Calibre 7121, found in the iconic Royal Oak Jumbo, integrating all perpetual calendar functions into a single, streamlined layer. This design is a direct result of AP's groundbreaking RD#2 research and the insights gained from the RO Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The movement itself is an impressive 4.1mm thick, boasts a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and offers a robust 55-hour power reserve.
Effortless Precision: Mastering the Revolutionary Crown-Only Adjustment System
For the user, the most compelling innovation lies in the all-encompassing crown system, which controls all functions. Gone are the days of recessed correctors or special tools; anxiety is replaced by intuitive control. While consulting the instructions is highly recommended, the system is designed for ease. It features four crown positions: a normal position for winding, a middle position for calendar adjustments (clockwise for date, counter-clockwise for month and leap year), and a full pull for time setting. An additional special correction position, accessed by pushing the crown back one step from the full pull, allows for clockwise adjustment of the day of the week and week number, and counter-clockwise adjustment of the moon phase.
Refined Engineering and Artistic Flourishes: The Meticulous Finishing and Design of the Movement
Although the adjustment process might sound intricate, it is remarkably stress-free in practice. Safety mechanisms are thoughtfully integrated, with a no-correction zone clearly indicated in red on the 24-hour indicator within the 9 o'clock subdial. This fundamental shift towards effortless setting transforms what was once a delicate ritual into a reassuringly straightforward experience. The movement's finishing exemplifies classic Audemars Piguet artistry, featuring hand-chamfered bridges with sharp internal angles, precise satin brushing, circular graining, and polished accents. The openworked rotor, barrel bridge, and balance bridge are meticulously crafted in a pink gold tone, imparting a warm, elegant contrast to the movement's otherwise monochromatic aesthetic.
Exclusive Elegance: Details on Acquisition and Investment in This Masterpiece
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked 26685XT is available exclusively through Audemars Piguet boutiques. Priced at CHF 180,200, excluding taxes, this exceptional timepiece will be produced in highly limited quantities, underscoring its exclusivity. For more detailed information, prospective owners are encouraged to visit the official Audemars Piguet website.